Another love affair with Italy, Part One: Florence & Pisa

I fell in love with Italy while visiting Rome in November, and just knew I wanted to explore more of this beautiful, welcoming, delicious country.  So, when my parents’ friends (C&S) were headed to Europe for work and wanted to squeeze in a vacation as well, their top choices were Italy, Belgium, and Greece.  Needless to say, I was elated to discover that Italy was the most affordable and most agreeable option for everyone.  They were not particular about what cities we visited, so I did some research and narrowed it down to Verona & Venice, or Pisa & Florence.  Ultimately, Florence won out, and with it, Pisa and Cinque Terre.  While I have yet to visit Verona & Venice, I think we made the right choice! [Truthfully, I am convinced you can’t go wrong with Italy!]

Our rough plan was to fly into Pisa early Saturday morning, spend two nights in Florence, then spend two nights in Cinque Terre.  In the midst of that somewhere, we planned to also see the Leaning Tower of Pisa {because when in Rome Pisa…}.

Our flight was supposed to leave London Stansted around 9:40 in the morning Saturday, but we ended up getting delayed on the runway for like 30 minutes (always fun with a 2-year-old and 8-month-old).  Finally we headed out and landed in Pisa early afternoon.  C&S  had already arrived from the states, so we gathered our items and met them in the (tiny) lobby area.  Pisa is located kind of smack dab in the middle of the places we were visiting; Florence is about an hour train ride east, and Cinque Terre is about an hour train ride north.  We hadn’t nailed down a solid itinerary, so our first order of business was deciding whether we wanted to do Pisa that afternoon, Monday in between Florence and Cinque Terre since we had to change trains there anyway, or right before we left Italy.  We decided that an afternoon in Pisa would be a nice way to break up our train travel from Florence to Cinque Terre, so we planned on doing that Monday.  We hopped on the Pisa-Mover bus that went straight from the airport to the main train station in Pisa.  It looks as though they just recently installed a train that makes this direct route in 5 minutes, which is awesome!  From there, we took a train to Florence.

Ok, so this next part is a bit embarrassing to write, and still makes my stomach drop a little bit thinking about it.  We knew we had to get off at Firenze Santa Maria Novella (SMN), which was where the train terminated.  Well, I {yes, me…I will painstakingly take full credit for this mistake} didn’t realize there was another “Firenze” train station on the route, Firenze Rifredi.  At the Firenze Rifredi station, I heard “Firenze” and assumed it was our stop [and that the train was ending there]…. So, we gathered up all of our stuff and started putting it on the train platform.  Well, as we were all shuffling in and out of the train, gathering our luggage and backpacks, we hear the train conductor indicating that the doors are closing.  None of us made it out of the doors in time, so we immediately panicked, as almost all of our luggage {including the diaper bag which had my wallet and our passport holder} was still on the platform.  Holy. Shizzzzz.  Guys.  Watching your luggage get smaller and smaller on a train platform as the train goes barreling away is one of the WORST.FEELINGS.EVER.  Ever. ever. ever.  So the entire ride to the next station (the actual Firenze SMN station) we were freaking out, trying to press the emergency buttons and get ahold of someone to no avail.  Now, the next stop wasn’t truly that far, but it felt like an eternity.  Once there, we literally ran off the train, tried to talk to someone who worked there {always exciting with a language barrier}, and they basically said that all we could do was go back and hope that it was still there.  There was no one we could call to even try to look after our items or anything…  So we decided to divide and conquer.  C&S took the next train back, while B, myself, and the kiddos hopped in a cab.  I’m not sure that our cab driver even understood half of what we were saying, but we finally got across that we needed to go to the *other* Firenze train station and FAST.  He definitely understood that second part, as it was one of the scarier cab rides of my life…  BUT… we finally made it back , and B took off running while I paid the driver and gathered the kiddos and the little bit of stuff we still had.  Somehow, the travel gods were looking down upon us, and all of our stuff was still sitting there on the platform, untouched.  C&S arrived shortly after we did, and we all breathed a collective sigh of relief.  I feel like I am a pretty seasoned traveler, and have spent my fair share of time on trains, but this incident sure made me feel like a rookie!  {Not to mention the judging looks from all of the workers we spoke to 😛 }  Anyway, I can now look back and laugh about this moment, but jeeeeez it was a hot mess and a half!

So after our excitement, we got back on the train to Firenze SMN (with all of our luggage), then caught a cab to the Family Apartments Florence office.  This cab ride was much more relaxing, and as we meandered our way through the narrow streets of Florence, I felt my heart burst with the same joy I felt when we were in Rome.  Italy is just my place.  I got us all checked in, and we were taken to the apartment, which was just around the corner, on a cozy little street near Piazza della Signoria.  The apartment was spacious, clean, and in a fantastic (albeit a bit noisy) area.  My only very minor complaints about the apartment were that one of the rooms had two twin beds [not entirely practical for us, as we had two couples, but probably super nice for families with older kiddos!], and they were not able to provide cots for our littles.  The bed in the other bedroom was huge though, so B and I made it work with the kiddos in bed with us.  Once we got everything situated, we made a quick grocery run to pick up a few items before wandering around in search of a place to have dinner.  I just love the streets of Florence.  I love how relaxed and comfortable they feel, how cute and quaint everything is, and how they buzz with energy.  There is also a ton of hidden (and not so hidden) street art; I loved finding murals, painted street signs, and people creating chalk art on the streets throughout the city.

We ended up at an adorable rustic-looking restaurant, MaMMaMia.  After our exciting and nerve-racking day, we all indulged in some adult beverages–I had some of the most delicious wine I’ve ever tasted!  The food was also pretty amazing; I had the tagliolini with artichokes and pecorino cheese (known in the Tuscany area), and got to sample some of the cheese, nut, and honey platter that C&S ordered—absolutely delizioso!

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With full bellies and happy hearts, we rambled our way back to the apartment to sleep off our long day of travel.

This trip was intended to be mostly about relaxation and leisurely exploring, especially after our sight-seeing heavy trio of trips to Normandy, Rome, and Paris in the fall and winter.  While Florence is home to such gems as Michelangelo’s David and the Uffizi Gallery, we weren’t really concerned with spending time in museums, we really just wanted to immerse ourselves in the sights and sounds of Firenze.  And that we did…

Sunday morning we strolled through Piazza della Signoria and the Ufizi courtyard on our languid walk toward Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence.  The bridge is beautiful and colorful, and filled with shops.  Before we crossed the bridge, we had coffee and breakfast at the highly recommended Caffe delle Carrozze.  I think my only disappointment with Italian cuisine is their breakfast.  They are not really “breakfast people”, other than a hot cup of something caffeinated!  While I love my coffee, I also enjoy a big old breakfast to get me energized for the day.

With full-ish bellies, we ambled our way across the bridge, and walked along the river on the opposite side.  We eventually hiked (literally) our way up to Piazzale Michelangelo, which gives the most breathtaking views of Florence.  It was definitely a trek to get up there, especially with a stroller and baby wearing, but it was totally worth it for the amazing views!  The square is pretty large, and was hosting a car show while we were there, which B and Steve loved– they are both super into cars, so they inspected and chatted.  Meanwhile I chased Benjamin around as he chased more birds around 🙂  If I ever go back to Florence [yes, please!], I have every intention of enjoying a bottle of wine while enjoying a sunset from Piazzale Michelangelo!

After taking the steeper, less scenic stair route up to the square, we found a less grueling (and more scenic!) route back down to the river.  We needed to refuel ourselves, so we headed to top-rated Grom, stopping to snap some photos in Piazza Santa Croce along the way.  My gelato at Grom was delish; I could eat gelato every. single. day. ❤

As we devoured our gelato, we wandered our way to Florence’s pride and joy, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore (aka il Duomo di Firenze, or simply, the Duomo).  The Duomo piazza also contains the Baptistery of San Giovanni, and both are simply stunning.  We didn’t go in either building, but since it was a beautiful day, we took advantage and relaxed in the piazza for a bit.  I fed Marybel, Benjamin chased birds {again}, and we all took a few [thousand] photos!

We roamed the city some more {sensing a theme here?}, then settled on Il Magnifico for lunch.  We went here purely for convenience, as we were hungry and it was the closest place open for lunch.  Knowing it was probably going to be so-so since it was in a touristy area, we took our chances.  Despite the awful ratings and reviews, I actually had one of the best pizzas I’ve ever eaten there!  I will admit it was a bit pricey for what we got, though.

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A quick pit stop at the apartment to rest and refresh, then we were out the door again.  This time, we headed toward Ponte Vecchio again, but turned a different way to get lost in another area of the city.  Our path landed us in front of yet another church, the Church of Santa Maria Novella.  The exterior of these churches are so different from many of the churches I’ve seen in Europe with their gothic architecture and immensely decorative colored marble facades.  We did get to peek inside; I love seeing the various types of architecture and design used in churches!  Outside of the church, in the nearby square, there was quite a crowd of people relaxing on the benches, taking advantage of the good weather and a street musician.

C&S are beer snobs, so they requested we check out BrewDog Firenze.  BrewDog was founded in Scotland, and has spread across the UK and is expanding internationally.  It was a cool little joint, and it was fun to hear and see the wide range of languages and people hanging out there.  We all drank a beer and chatted while the kiddos napped.  Heading back toward the apartment, we stopped at Agricola Toscana  for dinner.  Because I can’t ever have too much pasta, that’s what I ate again, paired with a yummy local wine.  That evening, I got the kiddos settled into bed while B, C&S headed to a bar around the corner for a nightcap.

The following morning we had to head out, so we dropped our bags off at the office while we grabbed a bite to eat at a cafe around the corner.  Actually…I need to back up…the morning started out a little rough– Marybel woke up not feeling well and threw up all over the place, blech!  We got everything cleaned up and tried to get her situated and feeling better.  Unfortunately, she didn’t feel well most of the day- she was pretty much either sleeping, eating, or throwing up what she just ate all day.  Luckily, it was just a 24 hour bug, and she was back to feeling her normal, happy self the next morning, but I just felt horrible for her all day!

Anyway, after breakfast, we hoofed it to the train station, which wasn’t a bad walk at all- we totally could’ve walked there when we arrived {though after our crazy arrival, I’m not sure we would’ve wanted to!}.  We hopped on the next train to Pisa, which was about an hour ride.  The ride was actually a nice time to relax for a few, and try to get Marybel feeling a little better.  Benjamin absolutely loves trains, as I am sure I have mentioned before, so he was perfectly content looking out the window with a snack in hand.  Once in Pisa, we stored our luggage [for an absurd amount of money– that luggage storage has got to make bank!] so we could head into town for a few hours.

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As I said before, it seemed silly to be so close to the Leaning Tower of Pisa and not go see it!  It didn’t take long for the bus to take us from the train station to the Square of Miracles, where the tower is located, along with the Baptistery  and cathedral.  To be completely honest, I was prepared to be unimpressed.  Everything I had heard and read said that Pisa was barely worth seeing; the tower is just there with nothing around it and it’s just that, a tower that leans.  But y’all.  I was pretty darn awestruck!  We had to wander through the tourist kiosks selling knick-knacks and snacks, but as we walked through the walled archway into the actual square, I was just stunned by the sight!  I definitely didn’t expect it to be surrounded by such beautiful buildings and amazingly green, lush grass.  I also didn’t expect it to be quite so… lean-y.  I mean, I know it’s called the Leaning Tower of Pisa, but it really does seem to sort of defy gravity!  I also loved seeing all of the people doing their various poses to “hold up” the tower for photos (and of course, I had to do one too!).

We were all hungry after our train ride, so we popped into one of the nearby [touristy] restaurants and ate lunch before exploring the square more.  Benjamin, as usual, chased birds while we took photos and marveled at the tower from various angles.  Spending the afternoon in Pisa really was the prefect way to break up our train rides from Florence to Cinque Terre and knock something off of the bucket list!  The weather was perfect for us too!  I can’t wait to write my ‘Part 2’ of this post about Cinque Terre; it is truly one of the most picturesque places I have ever seen in my life!

Travel Journal for Florence, Pisa, and Cinque Terre

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