Oh, There’s No Place Like Rome For The Holidays…

Well Barcelona, I’ve found your competition…his (her?) name is Rome.

Italy may have won me over in the form of cozy, antiquated, charming, comfortable Rome. I’ll be honest, I was apprehensive about Rome.  It was actually one of the cities I wanted to visit the least out of Italy, as I expected it to be obnoxiously touristy, dirty, overwhelming, and underwhelming all at once.  Let’s just say I was pleasantly surprised.

The pizza. The pasta. The wine. The gelato. The bread.

The cobblestones. The sweet, meandering roads. The colorful alleys.

The feeling of being completely enveloped by history at all times.

Ahh. Amore.

Okay, okay, snapping out of my euphoria cloud so I can actually tell you a little about my trip.  Thanksgiving weekend was a perfect time to visit Rome- it was the off season, so it wasn’t overly crowded, yet the weather was still pretty nice (definitely nicer than the UK!).  Our group ended up being 10 people; 5 adults, 2 kids (6 & 8), and 3 littles (2, 1, 5 months).  Our flight was at the ungodly hour of 6 something in the morning, so my family decided to stay at a hotel out by the airport so that we didn’t have to drive the hour+ in the wee hours of the morning.  We stayed at the Premier Inn Stansted, which was fantastic.  We have stayed at several Premier Inns throughout the UK and all have been absolutely wonderful!  In the morning, we just zipped on over to the airport and met with our Maple Manor Meet and Greet service.  I have used several meet and greet services before, and they are super convenient when flying early or lugging lots of stuff {which we usually are since we have two littles!}  I was disappointed this time though upon our return, which I will talk about later.  Anyway, we got all checked in and settled.  This trip, we brought our umbrella stroller, Lillebaby carrier (for Marybel), and toddler Tula (for Benjamin).  We wore Marybel in the Lillebaby for most of the trip, and used the umbrella stroller most days with Benjamin.  It’s nice now too, that Marybel is big enough that she can be in the umbrella stroller for a little bit at a time {until big brother pitches a fit about “my seat!!!!”}.  I digress.  We did use the Tula for the Colosseum tour, but I am now getting ahead of myself 😉

We arrived at Rome Ciampino airport around 10am.  We ended up taking a bus, then the train, then a cab to our hotel, which was probably not the most economical choice in terms of time or money.  [When we returned to the airport, we just took a cab straight there, which made much more sense and was way easier!]  If you do take the train, be sure to validate your ticket, it took us forever to figure that out!  The ten of us stayed at a fabulous apartment in the middle of Rome called Apartment Cynthia.  It had 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms with plenty of room for all of our guests, and the host provided two cots for our littlest travelers.  There was a cozy little living room and a spacious kitchen, stocked with the basics.  The apartment was right above a bustling little street with restaurants and a grocery store, which was incredibly convenient for us.  The host met us there to give us an overview of the place, and she recommended some sights and restaurants nearby.  Despite the zillion stairs [and one tiny elevator], I would definitely recommend the place!  **Also, be sure to read correspondence from accommodation emails carefully; upon arrival, we were asked for the payment in cash, which I was not expecting.  After looking back through all of my emails, I finally noticed that on the bottom of one of my emails, it was noted that only cash would be accepted.  We got it taken care of, but it was definitely something we weren’t prepared for initially.  Anyway, we got settled and refreshed, then decided to head out to explore.

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Our first stop, of course, was food.  Our host recommended Pizzeria Da Baffetto, which was literally right downstairs from our apartment.  It was delizioso!  It was true Italian style, thin-crust pizza in the most quaint, intimate little restaurant I’ve ever been in.  I devoured my pizza while leisurely sipping wine {ahh, to finally be traveling whilst not pregnant!}

Always the planner, I created a very basic itinerary for the day based on a walk found in Rick Steves Rome 2015 Guidebook .  While I am not much of a guidebook follower, I do like to get ideas of things to do, and this walk seemed like a perfect way to see a good chunk of Rome.  The apartment was near both Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Navona, so we quickly popped over to Campo de’ Fiori first.  It is one of the many squares in Rome, and when we arrived, they were having a market.  We wandered and snapped some photos, but the market wasn’t as good as many I’ve seen in my travels, so we made our way back toward the next stop on our walk, Piazza Navona.

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I loved Piazza Navona.  It is a beautiful, open square with fountains, shops, cafes, restaurants, and plenty of space for the littles to chase birds and the adults to people-watch.  Street artists sell their goods here, and we ended up buying paintings from an artist there later in the weekend.

Continuing on our walk, one of the guys wanted to stop in an old church, which worked out just fine, as I wanted to check out Biblioteca Angelica, and the older kiddos needed a bathroom break.  Bibliotheca Angelica is a magnificent old library, housing ancient manuscripts.  I love books, libraries, and bookstores, so I just wanted to peek inside and take a few photos.  I was glad I did; it’s definitely a hidden little gem.  I loved that when I went in, people were there working and actually using the library.

Our next stop was the famous Trevi Fountain, arguably the most beautiful fountain in the world.  There is an interesting history to the fountain, and legend has it if you throw a coin in over your shoulder, you will return to Rome one day.  This was the first place Rome felt really crowded and touristy.  We could barely get to the rope to take photos, let alone get a good one without a million people in the background.  But it was gorgeous, and I did indeed throw a coin in, fingers crossed the legend is true!

We stopped at Il Gelato di San Crispino for our first taste of Italian gelato.  Oh man, do I love me some gelato.  Especially dark chocolate.  I could totally live in Rome, just give me some pizza, pasta, wine, and alllllll the gelato!

To finish off the walk, we trekked up to the Spanish Steps.  We somehow took a back way that ended us up at the top of the steps.  This was both a blessing and a curse.  It was a blessing because I think if we had approached it from the opposite direction, and started at the bottom of the stairs, we would’ve said no way to climbing them with the strollers, and I would’ve been super bummed to miss out on the view and photo ops from the top!  However, it was curse too because, well, we had to somehow get to the bottom in order to make our way back toward the apartment, and the only way down was to go down all the stairs with the stroller.

*As a side note…I am not particularly interested in the history of everything I see while traveling (unlike my nerdy husband); I prefer to take everything in visually and document it all with photographs.  I often go back and read about the things I see, but if you want to know details, click on the links {that’s why I include them!}

Upon reaching the bottom of the steps, we decided to make our way back toward the apartment to wrap up the long day with dinner.  We ended up walking down one of the fancy shmancy streets with all the expensive stores (Louis Vuitton, Armani, Ferragamo, etc.), which was interesting to see.

Ristorante Pasquino was right down the street from our apartment, so we had dinner there.  I devoured a delicious pesto pasta, wine, and tiramisu {because…when in Rome, right?}.  Overall, our first day left me starry-eyed for Rome.  I just loved that no matter where I was in the city, I felt surrounded by beauty, history, love, and happiness!

Friday we had booked a 3 hour Colosseum Tour through Walks of Italy [highly recommended], which included the underground arena floor and top tier of the Colosseum, as well as general access to the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill, all with a tour guide.  Our tour didn’t start until 12:30, so we picked up some breakfast on the road and meandered our way toward the Colosseum throughout the morning.  As I said before, you are always surrounded by history in Rome, so we were often stopping to marvel at ruins, churches, and just the permeating beauty of the city.  We stumbled upon the Teatro Marcello, which seemed to be a kind of abandoned miniature colosseum; Capitoline Hill/Piazza del Campidoglio, where the boys ran around between massive buildings and intricate statues and provided a great view of the Roman Forum; the adjacent Santa Maria in Araceli {atop approximately 30954983274652093846572394586734 stairs 😛 ); and several of the free public water fountains.

Finally, we arrived at the Colosseum.  Nothing quite prepares you for the grandiosity of the Colosseum.  It is massive, and the fact that it used to be even bigger just blows my mind!  We still had some time before we were supposed to meet for our tour, so we had lunch across the street from the Colosseum.  It was surprisingly good for how close it was to the Colosseum.  We then met up with our tour guide and set off with our fashionable headsets.

Obviously I won’t (and cannot) describe our entire tour, as it lasted over 3 hours and covered tons of information from the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill.  The Colosseum was a place where I was especially less interested in history, as I know the basic history of it, and it’s not something that fascinates me (again, unlike my husband).  It was definitely cool to see the ancient building and experience standing in a place you read about in history books, but it’s a little creepy and depressing too, especially the underground portion.  The third tier gave some great views of the city.  We had two different tour guides, and both were super knowledgeable, but our main guide was much more friendly than the one who showed us the underground arena and third tier.

Throughout this tour, Benjamin was mostly in the Tula carrier, and Marybel was in the Lillebaby.  Benjamin is at an age that it is getting difficult to do structured days and tours, as he has a little mind of his own and wants to do what he wants to do.  Overall, he was well-behaved for the tour, but it was long, and he did get antsy!  The Colosseum was another relatively crowded site- I can’t even imagine how it would be in the summer!

The tour moved from the Colosseum to Palatine Hill, where our tour guide let us in on some of the best views of Rome and the Forum and Colosseum!  We then moved down to the Roman Forum, which was huge–like a beautiful winding maze of ruins!  It used to be the centre of Roman public life in many facets.

Overall, my opinion of the Walks of Italy tour:

Pros of the tour:

  • Tons of information!
  • Skip the line
  • Access to underground and third tier
  • Expert knowledge of history as well as places for great photo ops, etc.

Cons of the tour:

  • A bit pricey
  • Long, especially with kiddos

We were all starving after our lengthy tour, so we did an early dinner at Ristorante Gran Caffe Cavour, not far from the Colosseum.  More pizza and pasta!  We wandered our way through the city back to the apartment, stopping for gelato, of course.  The boys decided to have a few beers at the bar downstairs, Birra e Sale.  My husband said it was amazing!  [They somehow also ended up with meat and cheese, which they apparently also sell?]  Us girls stayed with the kids and shared a bottle of wine 🙂

Our Vatican City tour for Saturday morning was also booked through Walks of Italy, and included the Vatican museums, Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter’s Basilica.  Our walk to Vatican City was nice; we left with plenty of time to wander through the foggy streets of Rome.  We found our designated meeting place, and had some coffee while the littles ran around in the little square area.  Hubby and I decided to wear Marybel, as usual, but keep Benjamin in the stroller.  This worked out fine for the most part, even though there were quite a few stairs in the museums and we had to check the stroller for St. Peter’s Basilica.

 

At around 9:30, we headed into the Vatican Museums with our tour group.  It’s crazy that one moment you are in Rome, and the next you are officially in another country, as Vatican City is technically just that!  Other than being a bit snippy about a bathroom incident (sometimes $#!+ happens with little ones ;P), our tour guide was great-super knowledgeable and friendly.  In addition to the fact that skipping the line was the best.thing.ever. there, I feel like I would’ve been completely lost in the museums without a tour guide, so I am glad we went that route!  We started out with an overview of what we would see in the Sistine Chapel, as our tour guide wouldn’t be able to talk once inside.  They have pictures of the panels in the courtyard, so she was able to explain each panel and things to look for, which was really helpful!  We saw so much artwork from a wide range of artists, places, and cultures as we made our way through the museums.  Tons of painted ceilings, amazing sculptures, enormous tapestries!  I loved the Gallery of Maps *I have a map obsession* and they were absolutely beautiful!  Many were from years and years ago and were incredibly accurate, even though some were measured in human feet!  I was also incredibly impressed by the many Trompe-l’œil murals and paintings–I had just taught my students about this type of art, so it was cool to see and take photos of!

Finally, we made it to the big event, The Sistine Chapel.  Man was it impressive.  Some thoughts on the Sistine Chapel:

  • Obviously, absolutely amazing and overwhelming beautiful art!
  • It was much larger the I anticipated–I expected a narrow, small chapel with a lower ceiling.
  • Did not feel like a chapel at all.  Obviously, there are not any pews, etc. in there now so that was part of the reason, but also, there were SO many tourists packed shoulder to shoulder and guards were scattered throughout.  There was also a loudspeaker announcement every few minutes saying “Silence, no photos” in various languages, which took away a little bit of the peaceful serenity of the place.
  • Despite the loudspeaker warnings, there were so so so many people taking photos.  I really could care less if you take them {I didn’t}, but seriously, have a little couth; turn your camera/phone on silent and for goodness sake, TURN OFF THE FLASH!
  • Amazing to see the difference between the areas that have been cleaned and restored versus the areas that haven’t.  It literally looked like black vs. white!
  • I would really love to spend more time in there {preferably without a zillion tourists} and see each panel up close, and read/hear about each of them as I look at them!  There is just so much information in the paintings!

After the Sistine Chapel, we made our way to St. Peter’s Basilica, also part of our tour.  The entrance to St. Peter’s gave an incredible view of St. Peter’s Square

We had to check our stroller here, which was a little bit of a pain, but not terrible.  Also, we didn’t have to worry about this while we were there, since it was late fall and cool, but if you go, be sure to check the dress code and dress appropriately!  Anyway.  Holy cow.  St. Peter’s Basilica is HUGE.  Ginormous. Massive. It’s really freaking big, guys. And ornate!  Carvings, sculptures, and walls upon walls of mosaic art.  The tour guide gave us lots of good information here too, like how much of the marble came from the Roman Forum, and how you could get married here, but you basically have to get on the list to reserve it as soon as you are born, haha!

After our 3+ hour tour, we were itching to sit down and eat some yummy food, so we found a little trattoria nearby.  It was on a super touristy street, so we knew it probably wasn’t going to be top notch authentic Italian.  Everyone else was pretty disappointed with the food, but I actually had a quite delicious pasta dish!  And, since we were back in Rome, we had to do as the Romans, and get more gelato after lunch 😉

We wandered our way back toward the area of our apartment, making our way past the Castel Sant’ Angelo and across the Ponte Sant’ Angelo, both beautiful.  Eventually, we found our way back to Piazza Navona in search of some street art, as that is what we collect when we travel.  As I mentioned before, we found some gorgeous paintings done by a local artist, then sat and enjoyed a little mime show while Benjamin snoozed for a bit.

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While in Piazza Navona, we ran into another couple we knew who were in Rome for the weekend as well, so we all decided to go see the Pantheon, as none of us had seen it yet.  The sun was setting as we arrived, which was magnificent!  It was a nice little square, and while we were hanging out, who should stroll by but Stephen freaking Hawking!  Seriously, I couldn’t make this up!  We later found out that he happened to be there for a conference, and he, no joke, went right past us–in fact, we had to move Benjamin’s stroller out of the way to make room for him.  How crazy?! And awesome!?  The boys, of course, scrambled to take epic selfie while I just kind of stood in shock!

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We were leaving the following morning, and I was kind of bummed that we hadn’t gotten to see the neighborhood of Trastevere, as I had heard such great things about it!  Since we still hadn’t eaten dinner, I suggested heading over there, as I heard it was a favorite area amongst locals.  It was definitely a cute little area worth checking out- lots of shops and restaurants, and more delightful little streets and alleys to meander.  Our even-larger-than-normal group found a great little restaurant, Gino 51, where we enjoyed yet more pizza, pasta, and wine.  As it was our last night, we felt compelled to get gelato {again} before heading back to the apartment.  Del Viale was probably my favorite gelateria we went to all weekend!  It was delicious and the guy working there was fantastic!

Since the boys had had a “night out” the previous night, us girls decided to check out a little wine bar, Il Piccolo.  A bottle of wine and some girl talk sans children and hubbies was just what the doctor ordered to finish out a fantastic weekend in Italy 🙂

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The following morning we packed up and caught a cab to the airport for our late morning flight.  Ciao Italy, thanks for stealing a little piece of my heart ❤

**To follow up on my disappointment with Maple Manor meet and greet (and to end another blog post with a bummer note, sorry!)…  We arrived back in London at our scheduled time, and once through customs and passport control, we grabbed our checked bag, then called Maple Manor.  They gathered my information and told me there should be a van waiting outside in the appointed area.  We headed out {into the very cold UK air with two littles}, but there was no van to be found.  We waited around for about 10 minutes or so with no luck, so I called back.  Again, they took my information and told me that the van left because I wasn’t out yet, and that another would be coming soon.  [As an aside, I thought this was weird because I had purchased the meet and greet option, and thought that they were supposed to bring my car to me, but I let it go, not wanting to make a big deal about it].  So finally a van comes and we practically have to fight other families to get a spot (even though we were the first ones outside), and we rode back to where they park the cars.  I gave them my ticket with my information and they gave me my keys….then proceeded to say something to the effect of “you booked meet and greet, we were supposed to bring your car to you….”  I. was. fuming.  BUT. I kept my cool and just said “yep, I know, but your people just kept telling me to wait for the van.”  The guy half-heartedly apologized, but I was just ready to get in the car and head home.  Argh!  Live & learn!

P.S. I still love Italy ❤ and traveling ❤ 😉

 

 

 

5 thoughts on “Oh, There’s No Place Like Rome For The Holidays…

    1. It is magical! We just returned from another Italy trip– Florence, Pisa & Cinque Terre, and it was just as magical! I could live in Italy ❤

    1. I was kind of disappointed that I didn’t go to Birre A Sale, as I enjoy a good beer too! But maybe I will make my way back to Rome and check it out!

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